As a family we usually like to spend a few days in West Kerry during the summer. Having grown up on a farm in north Kerry I am well aware of the changing nature of an Irish summer and how unpredictable the weather can be. In any case we decided to head west and take our chances. We brought our swimming togs and the younger ones brought wet-suits so that the weather would not impinge on the enjoyment of the beach and the Atlantic.
We stay in a house very close to Ballyferriter, which about 8 miles west of Dingle. It is almost at the tip of the Corca Dhuibhne peninsula and is a fantastic place in terms of the beautiful rugged scenery and raw beauty of the western and southern coasts of Ireland. Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtéaraigh) is framed with the hulking backdrop of Cruach Mhartain - a rugged hill about 400 in height and it looks on to the famous 'Three Sisters' headland - so names for the three rugged promontries are constantly battered by the strong currents and crashing waves of the western Atlantic at their feet.
Dominating this western peninsula and yet tucked into the north-western corner is Mt.Brandon, often shrouded in mist and fog but a magnificent sight on a clear day. It is a fantastic mountain to climb, weather permitting obviously, as it gives a breathtaking and panoramic view of the rugged West Kerry coastline with the Blasket Islands stretching the wild beauty of this famous peninsula into the ocean.
While in Ballyferriter for the few days we got fleeting glimpses of this rugged beauty as we plunged into the bracing cold of the Atlantic waves on Béal Bán beach. I love swimming in this spot as it is safe and and gives fantasic views of the surrounding cliffs, rolling patchwork of fields, blue, white and green waves breaking onto the beach and majestic Mt.Brandon in the distance. The water was bracingly cold but once you get under the waves quickly and stay down you adapt to the temperatures in a short space of time. It is a great way to challenge the body that needs more regular exercise and it also refreshes the spirits as you feel that you are connecting back to nature in a natural and raw challenge of stamina and will against the cold but wonderfully refreshing Atlantic waters.
The weather was typical for the area and time of year. 'Sunny spells and scattered showers' is a regular feature of the Irish weather forecast, and it lived up to that description. As we have visited this area many times the weather did not bother us in the least. We just got out and about and enjoyed it. The great pleasure of spending a good deal of time outdooors is that you get to enjoy the pleasant breaks in the cloud and the short sunny spells give you an opportunity to relish and appreciate that beautiful landscapes and seascapes. As a result of this trip I have many images in my head that I would like to paint.
On our last day in Ballyferriter we drove around Slea Head - which is the most westerly tip of the Dingle (Corca Dhuibhne) peninsula - and just as we approached Ventry (Ceann Trá) on the far side, the clouds scatterd for a few minutes and the sun shone gloriously on a panoramic view of the south west coast. Directly across the water we got a view of the blue slopes of Carrantuathail - Ireland's highest mountain and the sandy beaches of Rossbeigh. The shone right out to the very westerly tip of that Iveragh peninsula so that we could clearly see the rocky coast of Valentia Island. Away out to sea from Valentia we could vaguely make out the shape of the Skellig Islands and when we followed the panorama around fully we could see Inisvickillane - the most southerly of the Blasket Islands - to complete the picture. It was a magical moment of sheer natural beauty which revealed itself for about 10 minutes and then tantalisingly disappeared into the fog and mist of the West Kerry summer again.
When I returned home I tried to quickly capture a piece of that magical panorama.
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